Mark Twain wrote:
"The land of dreams and romance, of fabulous wealth and fabulous poverty, of splendour and rags, of palaces and hovels, of famine and pestilence, of genii and giants and Aladdin lamps, of tigers and elephants, the cobra and the jungle, the country of hundred nations and a hundred tongues, of a thousand religions and two million gods, cradle of the human race, birthplace of human speech, mother of history, grandmother of legend, great-grandmother of traditions, whose yesterday's bear date with the modering antiquities for the rest of nations-the one sole country under the sun that is endowed with an imperishable interest for alien prince and alien peasant, for lettered and ignorant, wise and fool, rich and poor, bond and free, the one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for the shows of all the rest of the world combined."
Friday, August 27, 2010
Mumbai to NY
Our last few days in India were in Mombai. What a culture shock it was from Delhi. People obey traffic rules, there were no cows on the road in the inner city, there were high rises ( reminded me of Miami Beach) and walkable streets. Of course that was the inner city. We asked to see the area where Slumdog Millionaire was filmed and were told tht was now high rizes, Not to be defeated we ditched our tour company again, got the help of the taj to arrange to have someone take us to the slums and teach us the differnce between the slums ( which provided bare minimual subsidized housing and a way to earn a liing ) and theh street peoplewho lived under tarps on the streets were not given any goverment aide in fear of the " godfathers" of India. It was important to see what could be done what was done and what was not done to give peole dignity and hope. we also arranged a trip to Elephanta Island, hennas, were invited to High tea in the Place part of the taj ( where they even offered to pakc our suitcases!) on our last day.
Did we ever mention the rains? It reained only when we were in cars or rickshaws and the sun cme out when we steeped out. How lucky can we be?
Did we mention the security- I have never been frisked so often, or seem such tigt security to enter hotels and monumemnts. The fear of trrorism is red + alert.
Well rachel is back off to Blatimore tomorrow where she is being interviewed by the City paper re a music festival she has but together for nxt weekend, and I am off to work again. It will be hard to be apart as we grew to really know each other ( yes there were some awful battles but 98 percent of the time we were in sync on the adventure)I will contine to post photos as we get the entered into the computer,.
Love to all barbara
Did we ever mention the rains? It reained only when we were in cars or rickshaws and the sun cme out when we steeped out. How lucky can we be?
Did we mention the security- I have never been frisked so often, or seem such tigt security to enter hotels and monumemnts. The fear of trrorism is red + alert.
Well rachel is back off to Blatimore tomorrow where she is being interviewed by the City paper re a music festival she has but together for nxt weekend, and I am off to work again. It will be hard to be apart as we grew to really know each other ( yes there were some awful battles but 98 percent of the time we were in sync on the adventure)I will contine to post photos as we get the entered into the computer,.
Love to all barbara
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Last full day In India
Today was our last full day in India. We spent it taking a tour of mumbia, which is indias financial Capitol. Mumbia couldn't be any mire different than Delhi. The streets are infinitely cleaner, cows don't roam the highways, drivers actually stay in their lanes, the sidewalks are not congested, high-rises are all along the waterfront etc. Well, at least that's the part of mumbia that we saw. Our tour guide absolutely refused to take us to any other area of town no matter how many times we asked. We were both well aware that the neighborhoods we were shown are nothing like the real Mumbai - a Mumbai which houses one of the biggest shantytowns In the world and has a population of well over 17 million. We knew that our tour guide was lying to us about the nonexistence of Mumbais slums and poverty In order to save face.
we were able to see the oil spill off the Mumbai coast from our airplane. For those of you In the states who are not aware, two ships recently collided and oil spilled all over the place. Don't get too hard on yourself if you weren't aware of this - nobody we spoke to who was from India knew anything about the gulf oil spill either. It just goes to show how little people know about global catasrohpies...
We are staying at the taj hotel. This place is beyond fabulous but a harsh reminder of the reality of terrorism. A shopkeeper at taj told us his story of how he fortunately had left the hotel ten minutes before the terrorist attack. He then proceeded to show us bulletholes In his walls. One of the holes was blocked by a small statue of ganish, the god of good luck. That statue had not been damaged and saved the store from being destroyed. Rachel bought a ganesh necklace after hearing that story, hoping that ganish would provide an equal amount of protection.
We look forward to seeing you all in the states!
From Barbara and Rachel's Ipad
we were able to see the oil spill off the Mumbai coast from our airplane. For those of you In the states who are not aware, two ships recently collided and oil spilled all over the place. Don't get too hard on yourself if you weren't aware of this - nobody we spoke to who was from India knew anything about the gulf oil spill either. It just goes to show how little people know about global catasrohpies...
We are staying at the taj hotel. This place is beyond fabulous but a harsh reminder of the reality of terrorism. A shopkeeper at taj told us his story of how he fortunately had left the hotel ten minutes before the terrorist attack. He then proceeded to show us bulletholes In his walls. One of the holes was blocked by a small statue of ganish, the god of good luck. That statue had not been damaged and saved the store from being destroyed. Rachel bought a ganesh necklace after hearing that story, hoping that ganish would provide an equal amount of protection.
We look forward to seeing you all in the states!
From Barbara and Rachel's Ipad
Location:P J Ramchandani Marg,Bombay,India
Off to Mombai
We just spent two days in Delhi. The contrast between Bhutan and India is mind boggling. In Bhutan the harmony between people and nature, the influence of Buddist philosophy, the respect for all life,nature and human, permeated every moment of our day and night. There is plenty of room for everyone to live in harmony. Delhi, on the other hand, is the most overpopulated city we have ever experienced. People, cars,motorbikes, rickshaws competed for every inch of space. The city is preparing for the commonwealth games next month and hence everything is in a state of destruction/construction I.e. a mess. One can't walk anywhere easily as open holes for new metros, and sewerage are everywhere. The commonwealth games are in 43 days and the stadium is not yet built. Between the beggars, the construction without safety considerations, the lack of traffic rules, and the density of people, crossing a street was an adventure. Nevertheless we managed to buy silver at great prices, to see old and new Delhi, visit the Ghandi museum, the bazaars, and even a modern mall. We had adventures buying glasses (frames were 30/40 $! And simple lens 9$! Rachel found out thru an eye exam ( 2$) that she needs glasses, so we got several stylish pairs. At 50$ a pair it was worth the risk, even if we need to change the lenses the frames are great.We were lucky with the rains. It poured every time we were in a car or rickshaw and miraculously stopped raining when we started to walk! The roads were mudslides, our shoes destroyed, but it was like being kids again walking in mud.
Another contrast in Delhi almost no ATM worked, in Bhutan there was not an atm.
We are on the plane enroute to Mombai, our last leg. It has been a trip of a lifetime, strenuous, full,rich in experiences, bonding of love and respect for each other's anxieties, needs, loves. We both love a good adventure and we have had a lifetime full. There is so much to process,so many photos to look at, so many laughs, as many oh my gods. We contrasted and compared religions , traditions, values, foods, and both agree that we are glad to be American where a
Although things are far from perfect , at least there is clean water, clean air,
Lots of choices, and our friends and family.
Love, Barbara and Rachel
From Barbara and Rachel's Ipad
Another contrast in Delhi almost no ATM worked, in Bhutan there was not an atm.
We are on the plane enroute to Mombai, our last leg. It has been a trip of a lifetime, strenuous, full,rich in experiences, bonding of love and respect for each other's anxieties, needs, loves. We both love a good adventure and we have had a lifetime full. There is so much to process,so many photos to look at, so many laughs, as many oh my gods. We contrasted and compared religions , traditions, values, foods, and both agree that we are glad to be American where a
Although things are far from perfect , at least there is clean water, clean air,
Lots of choices, and our friends and family.
Love, Barbara and Rachel
From Barbara and Rachel's Ipad
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Off to Delhi
We are in the airport in Paro ready to leave Bhutan, which is an unbelievable country. It was so peaceful here that we both forgot the day and the date! We don't want to go. Yesterday we hiked up to ten thousand feet to visit the tigers nest monastery. We were accompanied by cows bulls dogs and our guide. Most visitors cant make the hike but we did it! It Rachel and I from 7 30 AM to 4 3 PM to do the round trip, but the experience was amazing. We were blessed by the llama, sat in prayer ceremonies, saw the most luscious greens imaginable . The hotels have been dreams. Some have no electricity because they want to protect the fight path on the endangered species the black crane.We have taken amazing hikes ( the guide woudn't even let us carry our water
!) and met lots of smiling people everywhere. The streets here are so clean (especially when compared to Delhi!) and there are no traffic lights anywhere in the country! Now back to Delhi and then to Mumbai.
!) and met lots of smiling people everywhere. The streets here are so clean (especially when compared to Delhi!) and there are no traffic lights anywhere in the country! Now back to Delhi and then to Mumbai.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
From Barbara:
Hello everybody. We are in shangrila!!(AKA BHUTAN) Even the airport was like a fairy tale. The buildings are ornate the people welcoming, the weather perfect!(Holly - we got your doll made by students in a school for the disabled. It's very special) This is the first time in years that I feel almost no stress. Rachel got the same sickness I did, one day later, but with a Cipro and one dose of immodiaum each we are full of piss and vinegar and having an amazing experiencel It is an awesome place to be-people are happy smailing children are children, the air is clean, the food delicious, we hike miles every day, we get full of mud and smiles. Our guide is a devout Buddist and we have learned so much about Buddism. We have attended rituals, have been to Buddist University, schools, have earned all about prayer flags and mantras. We could stay here forever.
Hello everybody. We are in shangrila!!(AKA BHUTAN) Even the airport was like a fairy tale. The buildings are ornate the people welcoming, the weather perfect!(Holly - we got your doll made by students in a school for the disabled. It's very special) This is the first time in years that I feel almost no stress. Rachel got the same sickness I did, one day later, but with a Cipro and one dose of immodiaum each we are full of piss and vinegar and having an amazing experiencel It is an awesome place to be-people are happy smailing children are children, the air is clean, the food delicious, we hike miles every day, we get full of mud and smiles. Our guide is a devout Buddist and we have learned so much about Buddism. We have attended rituals, have been to Buddist University, schools, have earned all about prayer flags and mantras. We could stay here forever.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Varanassi and Bhutan
Varanassi was the most amazing experience. Varanassi is one of the oldest living cities (it is approximately 5000 years old). Being there felt like magic. We happened to have been there at the time of a festival dedicated to Lord Shiva, and so we saw many pilgrims who had traveled barefoot to the Ganges River, which is believed to have been adopted by Lord Shiva. There were far more pilgrims than tourists. In fact, we met no Americans the entire time! We were able to witness ceremonies of cleansing and cremations. Additionally, we watched a Hindu ceremony preformed by five Brahmans giving thanks to the Mother Ganges.
Our tour guide's father just so happened to be good friends with one of Barbara's friends in NYC. He is a professor of Indian literature and philosophy. We were invited back to his father's house for breakfast, where he gave us signed copies of a book which he had written about the history of Varanassi as a holy city. What a small world it can be!
We landed in Bhutan yesterday afternoon. We were able to see Mount Everest from the airplane. It is so gigantic that it literally stuck up from above the clouds.
Bhutan surpasses any expectations that we could have had. The people are so genuinely open and happy. Everybody wants to have their photograph taken, and they laugh when we show them the result. We've encountered a number of monks, including one who lived at a temple we visited. We trekked in high altitudes over difficult terrain for hours.
Needless to say, this trip has been quite the experience! We have so much more to say and wish that we could show you the photos, but the Internet here in Bhutan is quite slow (and the electricity in this part of the world has the tendency to go out without any notice).
Our tour guide's father just so happened to be good friends with one of Barbara's friends in NYC. He is a professor of Indian literature and philosophy. We were invited back to his father's house for breakfast, where he gave us signed copies of a book which he had written about the history of Varanassi as a holy city. What a small world it can be!
We landed in Bhutan yesterday afternoon. We were able to see Mount Everest from the airplane. It is so gigantic that it literally stuck up from above the clouds.
Bhutan surpasses any expectations that we could have had. The people are so genuinely open and happy. Everybody wants to have their photograph taken, and they laugh when we show them the result. We've encountered a number of monks, including one who lived at a temple we visited. We trekked in high altitudes over difficult terrain for hours.
Needless to say, this trip has been quite the experience! We have so much more to say and wish that we could show you the photos, but the Internet here in Bhutan is quite slow (and the electricity in this part of the world has the tendency to go out without any notice).
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Agra (the city of the Taj Mahal)
Yesterday, we drove five hours from Jaipur (known as the "Pink City") to Agra, thus completing our visit of the "golden triangle." The "golden triangle" consists of three cities which are major tourist attractions - Delhi, Jaipur, and Agra.
We arrived in Agra early enough last night that we were able to experience the Taj Mahal at sunset. We woke up early again this morning to witness the Taj before all the tourists got there. Both times were majestic. The Taj changes colors depending on what time of day it is. It is more magnificent than anything we could have imagined. Photographs cannot do it justice (still, we will be including photos on a later post.....)
Today, after returning from the Taj Mahal and taking a much needed rest at our hotel's pool, we visited the fort where the king who built the Taj Mahal was imprisoned by his son in a coup d'etat. Our tour guide seemed to have his own plans for the rest of the day - to take us shopping us thus keep us from witnessing the poverty is the city. Everytime we suggested going into a market, or just simply getting out of the car and walking around the city, we wound up at another speciality boutique. Fortunately, we were cheap and refused to shop just for the sake of it.
When we got back to the hotel, we were told that the overnight train that we will be taking to Varanassi later this evening is delayed by four hours. This gave us the opportunity to explore on our own. The poverty here is intense! It's much more blanant here than in the other cities we visited. This might be, however, because our tour guide have been careful to shelter us. We are a little bit relucant about having to spend so much time at monements and in the car, but we also felt how dangerous it was us as American women to be walking through many of these areas. Whenever we get out of the car (or even, at times, when our driver stops at an intersection) we are assaulted by beggers tapping on our windows, pulling on our clothes, or grabbing our arms.
The temperature here is excruciatingly hot. When asked, tour guide nonchalantly remarked that it must be about 40 degrees centigrade (aka about 111 degrees Fahrenheit). Unbelievably, everybody in the city continues to wear long shirts and pants without complaining. We are wondering what's up with this non-existent monsoon season. Thus far, we have only gotten caught in one short rainstorm.
There is much more to say, but not enough time on the Internet. We cannot wait to talk to all of you back in the states.
With love,
Barbara and Rachel
We arrived in Agra early enough last night that we were able to experience the Taj Mahal at sunset. We woke up early again this morning to witness the Taj before all the tourists got there. Both times were majestic. The Taj changes colors depending on what time of day it is. It is more magnificent than anything we could have imagined. Photographs cannot do it justice (still, we will be including photos on a later post.....)
Today, after returning from the Taj Mahal and taking a much needed rest at our hotel's pool, we visited the fort where the king who built the Taj Mahal was imprisoned by his son in a coup d'etat. Our tour guide seemed to have his own plans for the rest of the day - to take us shopping us thus keep us from witnessing the poverty is the city. Everytime we suggested going into a market, or just simply getting out of the car and walking around the city, we wound up at another speciality boutique. Fortunately, we were cheap and refused to shop just for the sake of it.
When we got back to the hotel, we were told that the overnight train that we will be taking to Varanassi later this evening is delayed by four hours. This gave us the opportunity to explore on our own. The poverty here is intense! It's much more blanant here than in the other cities we visited. This might be, however, because our tour guide have been careful to shelter us. We are a little bit relucant about having to spend so much time at monements and in the car, but we also felt how dangerous it was us as American women to be walking through many of these areas. Whenever we get out of the car (or even, at times, when our driver stops at an intersection) we are assaulted by beggers tapping on our windows, pulling on our clothes, or grabbing our arms.
The temperature here is excruciatingly hot. When asked, tour guide nonchalantly remarked that it must be about 40 degrees centigrade (aka about 111 degrees Fahrenheit). Unbelievably, everybody in the city continues to wear long shirts and pants without complaining. We are wondering what's up with this non-existent monsoon season. Thus far, we have only gotten caught in one short rainstorm.
There is much more to say, but not enough time on the Internet. We cannot wait to talk to all of you back in the states.
With love,
Barbara and Rachel
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Contrasts
Written by Barbara: What do you do in the middle of a monsoon? Get a massage.Where? At the castle where we were staying.
On Friday,we stayed at a heritage hotel called Chomru Palace.We were lodged in the women's quarter of what was formerly a royal palace.
The chomru palace was only a block away from the main road of the village of chromo. Chromo is a town that is extremely impoverished. Staying in a palace, right next to the center
Of this struggling town, was an assault on my senses values and identity. The village was sheer filth. The streets wre so noisy it was difficult to distinguish what the sounds were : horns honking ,horns calling Muslims to prayer ,the soundof humanity in motion. But the sounds were rhythmic but too loud to hear a pattern it was an assault on my senses. And the filter was needed for the people too I had to filter out the beggars pulling at by clothes and the poverty the fifty streets.
We turned down a roaad in Chomru into a different world .It was a heritage hotel right off the main market street. It was a step back in time and equally a step out of time the palace maintained the structure and the feelings of the originals residents marharagas and their women and servants. Our quarter had private gardens and pools was indeed magnificent but we were troubled by social consciousnessd screaming no no no.
The town streets it was scary beggars touched us and would not let us alone.We tried to avoid being hit by a car bus donkey or camel walking into cow or cow dung and the stares of people
We awoke early for a jeep ride to see suns rise over the sand dunes. We met a man at the tip if the dunes who invited us to hi s house to see his art in NYC it would have been stupid to go but it was an adventure to enter his studio and home and buy some magnificent works of art. We went back to the hotel where a big party was being planned. The hotel was being rented to BMW for the lauchungof a new sound system and the heritage hotel was up for the job of making this place a . Trouble was right outside were beggars and folks who wake to work in ragged conditions and could care less about the new BMW
Our driver picked us us and drove us to Jaipur.f what a city. We said we wanted to walk around and walk we did the noise was louder the the subway system on high volume. Crossing the street was taking your life in your hands.We planned to shop but were led to Americanized stores that didn't turn us on.
Our sever and guides have taught us a lot about Hinduism and Muslim
We are learning a huge amount about Hinduism and Islam. I am by the similaeites to Judaism. They are enormous.
Yesterday we rode elephants visited forts and wandered and shopped in Jaipur. We boy think it is a amazing live city full of contrasts held together by Hindu beliefs.
We have just finished breakfast and are off to the Taj Mahal
From Barbara and Rachel's Ipad
On Friday,we stayed at a heritage hotel called Chomru Palace.We were lodged in the women's quarter of what was formerly a royal palace.
The chomru palace was only a block away from the main road of the village of chromo. Chromo is a town that is extremely impoverished. Staying in a palace, right next to the center
Of this struggling town, was an assault on my senses values and identity. The village was sheer filth. The streets wre so noisy it was difficult to distinguish what the sounds were : horns honking ,horns calling Muslims to prayer ,the soundof humanity in motion. But the sounds were rhythmic but too loud to hear a pattern it was an assault on my senses. And the filter was needed for the people too I had to filter out the beggars pulling at by clothes and the poverty the fifty streets.
We turned down a roaad in Chomru into a different world .It was a heritage hotel right off the main market street. It was a step back in time and equally a step out of time the palace maintained the structure and the feelings of the originals residents marharagas and their women and servants. Our quarter had private gardens and pools was indeed magnificent but we were troubled by social consciousnessd screaming no no no.
The town streets it was scary beggars touched us and would not let us alone.We tried to avoid being hit by a car bus donkey or camel walking into cow or cow dung and the stares of people
We awoke early for a jeep ride to see suns rise over the sand dunes. We met a man at the tip if the dunes who invited us to hi s house to see his art in NYC it would have been stupid to go but it was an adventure to enter his studio and home and buy some magnificent works of art. We went back to the hotel where a big party was being planned. The hotel was being rented to BMW for the lauchungof a new sound system and the heritage hotel was up for the job of making this place a . Trouble was right outside were beggars and folks who wake to work in ragged conditions and could care less about the new BMW
Our driver picked us us and drove us to Jaipur.f what a city. We said we wanted to walk around and walk we did the noise was louder the the subway system on high volume. Crossing the street was taking your life in your hands.We planned to shop but were led to Americanized stores that didn't turn us on.
Our sever and guides have taught us a lot about Hinduism and Muslim
We are learning a huge amount about Hinduism and Islam. I am by the similaeites to Judaism. They are enormous.
Yesterday we rode elephants visited forts and wandered and shopped in Jaipur. We boy think it is a amazing live city full of contrasts held together by Hindu beliefs.
We have just finished breakfast and are off to the Taj Mahal
From Barbara and Rachel's Ipad
Location:Chomru
Assorted photos
Chomru palace
The main road of Chomru
Barber on the streets of Jaipur.
From Barbara and Rachel's iPad
Location:Chomru and Jaipur
Thursday, August 5, 2010
A very crowed city
Delhi is a very crowded city! There are over 17 million people who reside here. Times square-like crowds are everywhere! Needless to say, driving is quite adventure. The steering wheel is on the right and the drivers drive on the left, swerving around cyclists, motor bikes, buses, cows, elephants,dogs, and monkeys ! Our driver said there are three important
to successful driving (aka staying alive) -your
horn, brakes and hope.
We had a ball riding a rickshaw thru old Delhi, visiting a harem (where we learned how the women of the kings family played a major role in deciding who was and wasn't executed) and
Indias largest mosque (did you know that india has the second largest Muslim population?).
The streets of Delhi are extremely dirty. There are a cacohamy of smells...most of them not so pleasant
Excuse all the typos...we are typing on an iPad
to successful driving (aka staying alive) -your
horn, brakes and hope.
We had a ball riding a rickshaw thru old Delhi, visiting a harem (where we learned how the women of the kings family played a major role in deciding who was and wasn't executed) and
Indias largest mosque (did you know that india has the second largest Muslim population?).
The streets of Delhi are extremely dirty. There are a cacohamy of smells...most of them not so pleasant
Excuse all the typos...we are typing on an iPad
Location:Delhi India
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Flying can be fun
Amazing airplane seats. They open into beds and have contraptions to keep you alert for hours!
Unfortunately, ice water spilled all over Rachel as soon as we sat down. We had thought in advance to bring extra socks on the plane, but not extra seat cushions or pants. But with the staffs help and our ingenuity a blanket became a sari! It was a good laugh!
The food on the plane was amazing and plentiful. The lobster and veggies were especially delicious. After eating, we went fast to sleep.
From Barbara and Rachel's iPad
Unfortunately, ice water spilled all over Rachel as soon as we sat down. We had thought in advance to bring extra socks on the plane, but not extra seat cushions or pants. But with the staffs help and our ingenuity a blanket became a sari! It was a good laugh!
The food on the plane was amazing and plentiful. The lobster and veggies were especially delicious. After eating, we went fast to sleep.
From Barbara and Rachel's iPad
Location:Continental airline seats 8d and e
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Off we go into the wild blue yonder
August 3 1 45PM The cab will be here in two hours!!! Melissa just picked up Betty Boop and is taking care of Fric and Frac ( my frogs,a 64th birthday gift from rachel)
Our bags are packed we're ready to go--- so excited, so nervous.
Packing is not the easiet chore for us- somepeople never leave home by taking just a credit card and a toothbrush others take everything they own- we are in group two.
Thank g-d we have strong backs ( and sherpas in Bhutan?)
We all have different ways of dispelling ansiety-Rachel's and mine dont quite match up but our spirits are high our love absolute!!
Bye for now
Our bags are packed we're ready to go--- so excited, so nervous.
Packing is not the easiet chore for us- somepeople never leave home by taking just a credit card and a toothbrush others take everything they own- we are in group two.
Thank g-d we have strong backs ( and sherpas in Bhutan?)
We all have different ways of dispelling ansiety-Rachel's and mine dont quite match up but our spirits are high our love absolute!!
Bye for now
Monday, August 2, 2010
Friday, July 30, 2010
India minus 4 days
Put some music on the blog---look at bottom of page to play! ( thanks Janet!) Barbara
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Monday, July 26, 2010
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